Different Paints

Epoxy Paint

Oil or Latex?

Paints come in two main varieties: Latex and oil-based So what are the differences, advantages and disadvantages?

Latex paints are water-based and have some fantastic and useful advantages, such as being durable, fast-drying, low-odor, easily applied and can be cleaned up simply with soap and water. Latex paints also resist yellowing better than oil-based paints and have better mildew resistance. These advantages makes latex based paint ideal for bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms, where there is often moisture.

Oil paints of high quality are harder paints and have better abrasion resistance than latex paints. They also have a slightly higher gloss than the latex-based paint. A great perk to oil-based paint is that it goes on smoother and is more durable in the long run. A disadvantage to keep in mind is that these paints have a stronger odor, take longer to dry and cannot be cleaned up with just soap and water (a solvent such as paint thinner needs to be used for cleanup).

What Type of Sheen?

Paint sheen simply means the level of glossiness in paint. Today, most paints come in one of the following sheens: flat, satin or eggshell, semi-gloss and gloss.

Flat paint is the standard for most walls. It has the lowest sheen available and when it dries, it appears completely non-reflective with a smooth, matte finish. Flat paints are great because they conceal imperfections on walls that were there before you painted – as well as imperfections that occur after you paint. This is the reason why flat paint is recommended most for painting drywall surfaces or a surface that is not sanded well. Flat paint can help to make the surfaces look smoother and more uniform, and if the wall or surface gets any scratches, you won’t have to worry so much, as nicks and scratches blend in fairly well to flat paint! One of the big disadvantages to flat paint is that it is hard to clean. Because of its somewhat porous texture, the paint can hold onto dirt and make cleaning more difficult. Your best bet is to use it in areas that are not frequently soiled.

Satin, or eggshell paint, is also known as low-luster paint. While these paints are low-luster, they are more lustrous than flat paint and have a nice, slight sheen when compared to flat paint. The slight sheen is what makes eggshell paint able to bring a warm look and feel – and depth – to a room. This kind of paint is also easier to clean and can be used on any wall in your home. Paint a small area of a wall with eggshell paint to make sure this look what you want to achieve.

Semi-gloss paints are very popular in homes with young children because it is the easiest to clean among all the paints. This is the reason why semi-gloss paint is frequently used for children’s rooms, kitchens and bathrooms; it is so durable. If you choose to go with a semi-gloss paint, then make sure you choose one that is 100% acrylic latex, since that is the highest quality latex paint. Keep in mind that semi-gloss paints show a lot of imperfections, so if you have imperfect walls and young children, you may want to weigh out the pros and cons. Your best bet is to use it for the kitchen, bathroom and kids’ rooms.

Gloss paint is the toughest and most durable of all paints – and the shiniest, too! This very high sheen paint is often used on doors and in areas susceptible to getting dirty. It is also used on trim, baseboards and door frames.

 

Source: Networx Systems, LLC.

Coating metal surfaces

If you’ve ever wondered about refurbishing a metal object, or about painting metal surfaces in general, this is completely doable using metal primer. It’s also fairly easy to accomplish! Even better, metal surfaces of repurposed objects do not require you to maintain the previous paint color, which can open the door to all sorts of interesting projects. As long as you prepare your metal properly before applying the paint, you will be able to complete this task easily.

Work in a ventilated area. Working around paint and rust particles can be harmful, so choose a well ventilated area where you can put a drop sheet down underneath your metal project. Wear gloves and a dust mask while you work.

  • Keep a damp cloth nearby to wipe away paint, dust and rust particles periodically while you work. This is much safer for you than waiting until the end to deal with them.
  • If there is any chance the paint you are stripping may contain lead, the dust mask is an absolute must for your own safety.

Remove the old paint from the surface. Use a wire brush to strip the paint from the metal, remembering to wipe dust and paint particles away with a damp cloth as you work.[1] If you prefer, you can use sandpaper to remove the paint.

  • A combination approach is best – stripping large surfaces will go much faster with a wire brush, and then use the sandpaper to get in the nooks and crannies.
  • A cordless drill with a wire brush attachment is also an option, and a good one if you are stripping away paint from a large surface area. Remember to wear protective ear muffs when operating drills.

Clean the surface of the metal. Wipe away all paint dust with a damp cloth and discard the cloth. Scrape off any hunks of remaining paint. Use a fresh cloth to give your metal a thorough rub down, cleaning off all loose paint, dirt, grease and grime from the surface.

  • Even if the surface looks fairly clean, don’t skip this step. You want the surface of the metal to be virtually spotless, or as close as you can get to it.
  • Failure to clean your metal properly will result in a lousy paint job. The paint won’t stick to the metal properly and will peel off easily.
  • Oils on the surface of new galvanized metal, which may or may not be visible to the naked eye, can hinder your paint job if they aren’t removed. Use a simple detergent solution to wipe down new galvanized metal.

Sand down the metal until it is as smooth as possible. This will ensure that you get the longest life out of your paint job. After sanding, wipe down your metal one final time with a damp cloth to remove any lingering debris.

Apply a zinc-chromate primer first if the metal is rusted. You will want to do this before you put on the regular primer, but only if you are working with rusted metal. If your metal isn’t rusted, start with the usual oil-based primer that is described below. Before application, scrape off any loose rust and wipe it down to remove any flakes or residue. Once the rust is removed, coat the metal with zinc-chromate primer before using a full-bodied primer.

  • You will need to prime your surface with the full-bodied primer immediately after you use one of these products, so don’t apply them until you are ready to prime.
  • Zinc-chromate is a corrosive resistant substance. You spray it on first because you want it to be closest to the surface of the metal, to protect it from rust. After applying this substance, you should immediately apply the regular “full-bodied” primer so that the zinc-chromate remains as the first layer. It also acts as an adhesive for the full-bodied primer.

Choose an oil-based primer. Make sure your primer and your paint are compatible with one another.  Look for primer products that are made specifically for metal, as well, since these will best adhere to the surface.

  • Most primers come in a spray can for ease of use, but if you prefer to use a brush to apply it, metal primer also comes in a bucket or can for that purpose.
  • Primer prepares your surface so that the paint will adhere well, but it also helps to smooth out any color and texture that you weren’t able to remove from it.

Paint the surface. Make sure not to apply thick coats, it is much better to apply multiple thin coats.

How to paint over a chrome surface

Painting over chrome isn’t as easy as regular metal. The common misconception is that chrome is used as a protectant because it doesn’t corrode. The reality is exactly the opposite — chrome almost immediately oxidizes or “rusts” when it comes into contact with oxygen. But chrome oxide “rust” is completely clear and very fine, providing a glass-like shine over the nickle plating beneath, and a finish that’s smooth and slick to the touch. Painting directly onto chrome, you’re effectively spraying a shell over very fine “rust” — this reality necessitates somewhat more intensive preparation to keep your new shell of color from simply falling off.

1

Wash the chrome piece with basic soap and water and dry it thoroughly.

2

Sand the entire piece with 220- to 320-grit paper and use 120- or even 60-grit for specific areas if you have deeper scars, rust or pits. You must get below any damaged spots. A pit in the chrome left alone will pop out in no time and ruin your paint. You may even need to use a grinder if the 60-grit paper will not get you below the damage. Follow up on the entire piece with 320-grit paper; your objective is to have minimal scratching from the previous sandpaper and end with a 320-grit finish. Always wear safety glasses if you use a grinder.

3

Fill in any low spots in the metal from deep sanding or grinding either with liquid steel from a tube or glazing compound if the fill-in area is less than 1/8-inch deep. Once compounds are dry, sand level to the original surface with a heavier grit and follow up with 320 grit.

4

Using a clean cloth or tack rag, wipe the piece off to completely remove all sanding dust, and then wipe down the piece with either lacquer thinner or wax remover.

5

Put on your face mask and spray the entire piece with the self-etching primer. Two light to medium coats will do. Allow time to dry between coats. This special primer will grip to the metal and prepare you for regular primer and paint.

6

Once the self-etching primer is dry, spray two to three coats of the high-build primer over it, always allowing each coat to dry before applying another one.

7

Inspect the piece visually and also by rubbing your hand over it, and use glazing spot putty to fill in any remaining flaws or pinholes in the primer. You can get a better feel for flaws if you wear a cloth glove and run your hand over the piece slowly.

8

Sand any glaze down with 220- or 320-grit paper and then sand down the entire piece, including the edges, with 600-grit paper so that you end up with a very smooth finish. Be sure to sand down any runs you may have from the primer. Chips or flaws will show up even more once paint is applied, so spend time here to obtain a smooth surface.

9

Wipe down the piece again either with lacquer thinner or a wax-and-grease remover. Any oils, dust or debris on the piece right before painting will affect your paint job in a negative way. You don’t want to remove the primer, so just a once-over should suffice.

10

Spray two to three light to medium coats of the paint, being very careful not to let the paint run. The nozzle head should be about 8 to 10 inches from the target, and it is better to spray in even spurts rather than holding the nozzle down the whole time, which would more likely give you runs and heavy spots. If you develop any runs, you will have to wait until the paint is completely dry–probably by the next day–and sand the runs down with fine grits of 1,000 to 1,500, then respray the piece.

11

Spray two to three coats of the clear-coat finish over your paint once it has dried at least 15 to 30 minutes. Be sure you have good lighting for this, since the clear will not show a color to follow but only a shine on the sprayed areas. Sometimes you have to observe your work from an angle.

12

Let the clear coat dry for two to three days, and then you can use a very fine rubbing compound to give you a very smooth, flat finish, which will remove any small flaws, runs and bumps from the clear coat. The compound will also provide a brilliant shine. Apply the compound with a wax applicator, let set a minute or two, and then buff out by hand — or you may decide to use a power buffer with a wool pad if it is a larger piece. You may now also apply your favorite wax after the compound to further enhance the shine and offer more protection to your finish.

 

How to Easily Clean your Paint Roller

Cleaning latex and acrylic paint from a paint roller can easily turn into a big mess. Here is a  simple way to clean a paint roller fast and with little to no mess:

1. Position the crook of the paint roller frame over the rim of a large garbage can with the roller hanging down inside the can.
2. Train water from a garden hose spray nozzle set to a tight pattern on the edge of the paint roller so it spins the roller at high speed.
3. Move the stream of water up and down along the paint roller for a minute or two until the water coming out of the roller is clear.
4. Take the roller off the frame and stand it on end to dry.

 

Epoxy Paint Vs Epoxy Coating

Confusion is at an all time high for DIY homeowners looking to apply an epoxy garage floor paint. Should I be using an epoxy coating or an epoxy paint? What is the difference? Which one is the better choice? To put these questions to rest we’ll explain the difference between epoxy paint and epoxy coatings.

Epoxy Coating is not paint

When looking to update the surface of your garage floor your first step is to usually apply a latex acrylic type paint. Many manufacturers often place a small amount of epoxy in the paint mix and refer to it as 1-Part epoxy paint What this gives you is better adhesion and durability than using acrylics. But rest assure this is most certainly not an epoxy paint.

The term epoxy paint stems from epoxy manufacturers taking notice of the terminology people were using when searching for epoxy coatings. So corporate marketing teams made the decision to brand their products as epoxy paints. This made it easier for consumers to find their products both in stores and online.

However, this is causing mass confusion and a general misunderstanding for the public. In fact, if you are seeing a product advertised as epoxy paint for your garage floor it is most likely paint. This can add to greater confusion when purchasing a paint product when it is truly an epoxy product.

What is an epoxy coating and how does it work?

20160525_104941An epoxy coating is a two part product consisting of one part epoxy resin and one part polyamine hardener. Once this product is mixed you are on a race against time. Note that if your purchase a color epoxy you are actually tinting the resin. If no color is selected a resin will dry clear.

When using an epoxy coating keep in mind your completed surface is not just a gloss finish. Different than paint, epoxies provide a durable and resistant surface providing you with sustainable surface.

Application is breeze and you can gauge the thickness of the application based on the volume of the solids content. 50% solids mean that you have 50% of the product remaining on the floor.

Always research any epoxy coat system kits. Usually they will contain low solids and apply thin. This means you are cutting the lifespan of the surface down. Even if you are on a budget it will be worth the savings long term to go with a premium product.

In the future don’t cave into the name game when deciding on epoxy paint vs epoxy coating. As you can see, epoxy paint and epoxy coating are one in the same.  They are both an epoxy coating.  Do your research first, as this will help you to understand the type of epoxy you are purchasing and what kind of results to expect.

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